Checking out the AnyLink with Flyzone’s Butcher Bird
Author: Roger M. Post Jr.
Photographers: Walter Sidas & Roger Post Jr.
VIDEO LINK: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmLUwuy_rhA
AT A GLANCE:
MODEL NAME: Focke-Wulf Fw 190 Select Scale Tx-R
DISTRIBUTOR: Hobbico Inc.
TYPE: Sport Scale Warbird
FOR: Intermediate Sport Pilots
NEEDED TO COMPLETE:
The Tx-R version requires an AnyLink external 2.4GHz radio adapter and a transmitter that is compatible with the AnyLink, needle-nose pliers and a small, Phillips-head screwdriver.
After thoroughly reading the manual, the first thing to do is to charge the LiPo battery. This takes a while, as it also balances the pack, so be patient and do not leave it unattended as it charges. Next, remove the Styrofoam insert in the slot for the horizontal stabilizer and insert the latter here. The stabilizer is self-aligning; however, perform a quick visual check to ensure that it is evenly placed in the slot. A 3x25mm bolt holds it in place and is inserted and tightened through a square hole in the bottom of the fuselage, in front of the tailwheel.
Connect the aileron servo lead to channel 1 in the Tactic Rx the gear lead to channel 5 and the flaps to channel 6. Hook up the AnyLink 2.4GHz radio adapter to your Tx per its instructions and ensure it is has power by observing that its green LED is lit and that one beep was emitted (Futaba or Hitec Tx’s) when the Tx was turned on. When using the Spektrum DX7, you do not turn on the power switch. Doing so negates the AnyLink and allows the DX7 to run as it normally would. If the Tactic Rx hasn’t previously been bound to a 2.4GHz Tx, you must do so at this time.
Power up the radio—propeller still removed—and check to see that everything works as advertised. Ensure that all trims are in the neutral position; if the control surfaces aren’t centered, you can adjust them at the servo arm linkages via loosening the screw and moving the pushrod until the surface is centered. Now tighten the screw and make any fine adjustments via the Tx’s sub trims. For the landing gear down position, I added to the endpoint adjustment, which locked down its linkage better than the factory’s set up.
Place the receiver on the very bottom section of the radio compartment. The model I received had the hook and loop material for the receiving the Rx on the side area, which had it interfering with the elevator servo’s linkage operation. Attach the wing with the provided nylon bolt, and then adjust the control surfaces’ endpoint adjustments. The dual rates and expo can be set up at this time, as well.
Attach the propeller per the instructions and check the motor’s operation. When fired up, my model’s power system had plenty of thrust to pull the model into the air, even at ½ throttle. Unplug the battery, turn off the Tx and balance the model at three inches from the wing’s leading edge, close to the root. With the battery placed in its designated spot, the model was very nose heavy. So, I deviated from the stock set up and moved the battery back farther in its compartment by placing a piece of hook and loop on the top of the wing, just forward of the gear servo, and then attached its counterpart on the bottom corner of the battery. I then slid the battery in, back at an angle, and rebalanced the model. It was now perfectly balanced, upside down, with the tail sitting level.
The model is now ready to fly. Check out some of the online flight videos to see how it takes off and lands. They sure are helpful in determining what to expect for the first flight.